📋 Private Sale Checklist & Bill of Sale

Verify serial number

Check the serial on the frame. Run it through BikeIndex.org to confirm it's not reported stolen.

Test battery capacity

Charge to 100% and check the range indicator. A healthy battery should hold close to its rated range. Significant degradation = partial refund negotiation.

Test both brakes

Ride and brake hard. Both should engage firmly with no sponginess. Spongy hydraulic brakes need bleeding ($30–60).

Test motor in all assist levels

Ride through each assist level. Motor should be smooth and quiet. Grinding, clicking, or cutouts = potential motor issue.

Check display and controls

All buttons should work. Display should show speed, battery, assist level clearly. Cracked or non-responsive displays are expensive to replace.

Inspect charge port and charger

Plug in and confirm it begins charging. Check the port for damage. Always get the original charger — replacements can cost $50–100.

Check tire condition

Look for cracks, worn tread, or sidewall damage. E-bike tires are expensive ($40–80 each). Use this as a negotiation point.

Inspect frame for cracks or damage

Check the area around the battery, motor mount, and welds. Cracks in these areas can be dangerous and are expensive to repair.

Inspect chain and cassette

A stretched chain or worn cassette clicking during shifts = imminent replacement needed (~$50–80).

Test lights (if equipped)

Integrated lights are great but can fail. Check front and rear.

Confirm seller is the legal owner

Ask to see original purchase receipt or box. Check ID matches any warranty registration. Be cautious of vague answers about where the bike came from.

Verify fair market price

Check current retail, r/ebikes, and similar listings. A price that's too low is a red flag for stolen property.

Complete ownership transfer

If the bike has BikeTagz, complete the digital transfer. Also transfer any existing warranty registration.